Yellowstone - Upper Loop

by smthng 7. August 2008 15:45

The second day of our stay in Yellowstone National Park started with us packing everything up and checking out of our humble cabin in Lake Village.  I was able to pack efficiently enough to be able to get two additional "bits" into my luggage...  a six pack of some local amber ale (which was surprisingly good) and my Sidi Vertigo boots.  While my Sidis did a great job, they were HOT!  We were expecting mid to high nineties in the park, so I chucked the boots in the Givi case and wore my Solomon shoes that day.  It's rare for me to not have "all the gear all the time" (ATGATT), but I knew we were going to be doing a lot of low speeds and a lot of walking.  It was good call!

IMG_0392 We headed north up the bottom loop from Lake Village and stopped at the Mud Volcano.  It isn't a volcano any more, as it blew itself apart a long time ago, but it's still a pretty neat spot.  There were several mud geysers and springs, plus we got to see another elk and a bison, both at reasonably close range.  This was probably the biggest geologically active area we'd seen up to this point.

We headed up to the bottom of the upper loop and shot West over to the Norris geyser basin and the porcelain basin.  This is a HUGE area with LOTS of activity.  But, it also had a LOT of people, lots of steps and it was hot.  Steamboat I checked out Steamboat geyser and a few other areas, but I wasn't walking around in the heat, so I found a nice shady spot under a tree and waited for Jim and Richard to finish their meanderings.  They tried to talk me into checking out the porcelain basin, but I was just being a lazy twit, so we got back on the bikes and headed up to Mammoth. 

We stopped a couple of times at overlooks for scenic shots, but pulled off into the Mammoth spring area to drive a loop around the springs.  IMG_0431 This was pretty cool, with lots of activity and some pretty strange deposits and formations.  We probably spent an hour or more taking pictures and just checking stuff out before we took off to Mammoth for gas and fewd.

Getting gas was a bit interesting.  They have the old gas pumps with the handle and spinning dials in Mammoth.  Unfortunately, they were old enough that they couldn't handle prices as high as $4 per gallon.  So, they had set the pumps for "half-price".  It was smthng like $2.18 per gallon.  It was kind of cool to fill my tank for $9.50 for a change.  Of course, when I went in to pay, they doubled it to get back to "normal" prices.  There were signs everywhere explaining this, but it was kind of funny and quaint.  It was just neat to see how they'd adapted the old technological dinosaurs to deal with current prices. IMG_0428

Anyway, we stopped and grabbed lunch, which wasn't very good, quick or cheap.  There were a LOT of bikes out.  I'm guessing a lot of people go to Yellowstone on their way out to Sturgis.

We then decided we'd seen just about all of Yellowstone we needed to see and proceeded to head out towards the Northeast entrance.  It was quite a haul, so we still had plenty of time in the park.  I don't remember stopping anywhere in particular, but we did see quite a bit on the way out...  bison herds, a bear with two cubs (too far away to get pictures), and some more elk. 

I'm about to go on a rant here...  There wasn't much traffic, but there was enough that there was always some other vehicle in front or behind us within about a minute or so.  Most were polite and either pulled over for us or at least altered speed slightly until there were clear passing areas.  However, there were exceptions.  One in particular really torques my shaft drive!  We managed to get behind a pair of Hardley baggers (Harley Davidson touring bikes with full luggage) who were doing the speed limit...  Until there was a corner.  These two morons would be doing the speed limit and then would drop down to about 20 miles an hour as soon as there was any type of curve.  They'd creep through the curve, then whack the throttle wide open to get back up to speed whenever they got out of the curves.  Rinse, repeat...  repeat... repeat... 

Don't get me wrong here, I wasn't looking to do 80 mph or anything around the park, but I was planning on maintaining the speed limit (which I think was 45 mph).  A slight curve isn't going to change that.  If it's a curve I can safely manage at 70 mph, I'm not going to be happy doing it at 20.  I was fine doing the whole thing at 45.  I would have been even happier if the morons on the baggers have either made room for us to pass or just not whacked the throttle every time we could have passed.  All three of us would have been around them in less than a minute and we all could have enjoyed the remainder of our riding. 

Baggers take note...  You absolutely cannot outrun or even keep up with a decent rider on a four cylinder sport tourer.  It's not possible.  Unless your last name is Hayden and you are just playing a really cruel practical joke, it's not going to happen. End of story!

What happens when you try this is that we get closer and closer every time you block us.  Then instead of doing a nice pleasant pass, we do smthng obnoxious like drop the bike into first gear, wheelie past you and cut you off HARD when we complete the pass.  This makes us happy and we leave five or six miles of pent up frustration behind us (preferably in your air intake).  We then either do the same maneuver to you or make it even more obnoxious (my personal preference would be eating a pop tart in front of you while going barely fast enough to keep the bike from falling over, but that's a different story).  Once we think you are frustrated enough to try to pass us, we then start the engine again and make sure that you are only going to see our tail lights fading into the sunset.  You might also hear us giggling over the horrible noise of your loud exhaust pipes.

It should be noted, that I would never do this.  I've just heard that this happens.  Occasionally. ;)

Anyway, with the baggers dispatched, we continue on US 212 towards the park exit.  This is a really nice part of the park and I think a lot of people miss it.  It's basically a huge valley with a river and some grass plains.  Absolutely gorgeous country!  A few people obviously know about it, because we saw quite a few fly fishermen on Soda Butte Creek.

A final surprise on our way out of the park was trotting towards me down the road.  I stopped (in the road) and waited patiently while a mangy looking coyote trotted past me in the other lane.  He didn't care at all about me, my lights, the horn, the other two bikes, the three cars behind them, or the SUV that was following him.  He was just out for a stroll on the road.  I did notice that he had a dark green park radio collar on him, but he really didn't seem to care about that either.  It was kind of cool to get that close to one, but they are nasty looking little critters.

IMG_0434 After leaving the coyote to his walk, we got out of the park and stopped at the Yellowstone sign to take the required "I was here" pictures.  We then continued up Beartooth Pass through Silver Gate and Cooke City (hello Montana).  This was pretty much a miserable let down.  There was massive construction going on and we ended up in a "convoy" of about 30 vehicles, being led by a construction truck.  The road was dirt and rock... which meant huge dust clouds being thrown all over us.  To make it more interesting, the construction guys apparently decided to water parts of the road so it wouldn't be so dusty.  Dirt plus water equals mud.  Not real fun for a 600 pound motorcycle with about 100 pounds of gear on it.  Still, no mishaps occurred and we cleared the construction in a few miles.  I then promptly got "bad" and passed all the traffic that was previously in front of us.  Sorry, I was "done".  I stopped and waited for Jim and Richard later. ;)

Beartooth Pass was a nice ride with good scenery, but it wasn't the motorcycle Mecca we had been led to think it was.  Maybe we just did one piece of it or smthng and missed the good bits, but I wouldn't go back for it.IMG_0436

Anyway... we stopped for more pics and then turned off highway 296 to Hunter Peak Ranch.

That'll be it for now, but I'll post up separately about the ranch in the next post.  It was a cool place and I'll probably find an excuse to go back some day. :)

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Yellowstone - lower loop

by smthng 4. August 2008 07:44

The roads in Yellowstone make up a "figure eight".  We decided to do the lower portion the first day and the upper portion the second day.  We started from our cabin in Lake Village, on the east side of the lower loop.  We stopped first at Pumice Point on Lake Yellowstone.  We snagged a few pictures and moved on.  The next stop was Potts Hot Springs Basin.  There's a bunch of pools and steam there, but not much else.  You can't get very close, as there are no trails or anything.  Still, it was our first sighting of geysers, so we had to stop.

IMG_0166 Then we hit the West Thumb Basin.  Way cool!  There's a whole area of springs and geysers.  There's a nice boardwalk that goes right through the basin and you can get really close to a lot of the features.  We spent a fair bit of time here and this was probably the main cause of my camera battery dying later that day. ;)

On the south portion of the loop, I noticed a large male elk at Scaup Lake.  Unfortunately, by the time we'd parked the bikes and gotten out cameras, he'd decided he liked hiding in the bushes.  We hung around for a few minutes, but he was uncooperative, so we continued on until we found Kepler Cascades.IMG_0223

Kepler Cascades is a set of falls on the Firehole River.  There's a viewing platform, but the best views are afforded to those who are brave enough to climb out on some rocks (that would be me).  We took the requisite pictures and then headed to Old Faithful.

IMG_0248Old Faithful was still faithful and spewed pretty much on time.  It was hot and crowded and honestly not that impressive.  But, it's one of those things you have to see if you're there.  We then had lunch at one of the restaurants. Food, acceptable.   Service, horrible.

We then saddled back up and headed to the Prismatic Spring.  This is a really big spring with a lot of bacterial/algae growth.  It flows down into the river and it's a pretty cool place with boardwalks to get you out over the area.  Elk and bison don't use the boardwalks, as we did see quite a few hoof prints in the hot muck.  I guess the local critters are used to it.IMG_0289

We then headed up through Madison to the northern part of the loop.  We stopped to get some pictures of a bison who was hanging out on the side of the road.  They are actually bison...  buffalo are in Asia and Africa.  BTW... the picture doesn't do it justice.  Bison are HUGE!  Especially at night, when driving down the road. :S

Bison1

We also stopped at another set of falls on the Gibbon River.   IMG_0311I think it's just called the Gibbon Rapids.  I left Jim and Rich for a few minutes and ran up to the next overlook.  That gave me an opportunity to get pictures of them riding (trust me when I tell you that it's a rare thing to actually get a picture of yourself on a bike in motion).  They weren't great shots, but they'll do.

IMG_0324 IMG_0325

From there, we continued on to Artist Point.  I managed to get a few pictures, but that's where my camera battery called it quits.  After hte sun set, we headed back to the lodge. We passed another couple of bison and some elk.  There were a lot of people stopped to look at the elk, so we didn't bother. I started some laundry, had a "frosty beverage" or two and settled down on the lodge porch to write up some of the ride.  While waiting, I saw a coyote go trotting down the road in front of the lodge.  A few minutes later I saw a baby deer (I think) come flying up the road from the lake.  Then, there were all sorts of hoots, howls, yips and other strange noises before a pack of coyotes surrounded it and pounced on the thing.  They demolished it in no time flat!  Coyotes make some weird noises when they're getting ready to tackle smthng.  It was truly creepy, but way cool.IMG_0352

Anyway, I finished up my laundry and turned in for some much needed sleepz.

In Yellowstone

by smthng 28. July 2008 14:38

NAFO is done and we're now in Yellowstone. Sorry for the lack of progress in updates, but cell service has been all but non-existent... forget about wifi. We almost hit a bison on the way in, had some excellent riding and are now just checking out the scenery. We just finished watching Old Faithful and are sitting down for lunch. Good times. :) If I can get some time tonight, I'll write some posts, but they probably won't get uploaded until Wednesday or Thusday.

Note: that means that the next few posts about NAFO (which is now done), will appear after this one when I get time to sit down and do some typing.

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About smthng

Just a guy who digs Jeeps, photography, podcasts, sci-fi, running, motorcycles, and stuff.

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