The second day of our stay in Yellowstone National Park started with us packing everything up and checking out of our humble cabin in Lake Village. I was able to pack efficiently enough to be able to get two additional "bits" into my luggage... a six pack of some local amber ale (which was surprisingly good) and my Sidi Vertigo boots. While my Sidis did a great job, they were HOT! We were expecting mid to high nineties in the park, so I chucked the boots in the Givi case and wore my Solomon shoes that day. It's rare for me to not have "all the gear all the time" (ATGATT), but I knew we were going to be doing a lot of low speeds and a lot of walking. It was good call!
We headed north up the bottom loop from Lake Village and stopped at the Mud Volcano. It isn't a volcano any more, as it blew itself apart a long time ago, but it's still a pretty neat spot. There were several mud geysers and springs, plus we got to see another elk and a bison, both at reasonably close range. This was probably the biggest geologically active area we'd seen up to this point.
We headed up to the bottom of the upper loop and shot West over to the Norris geyser basin and the porcelain basin. This is a HUGE area with LOTS of activity. But, it also had a LOT of people, lots of steps and it was hot.
I checked out Steamboat geyser and a few other areas, but I wasn't walking around in the heat, so I found a nice shady spot under a tree and waited for Jim and Richard to finish their meanderings. They tried to talk me into checking out the porcelain basin, but I was just being a lazy twit, so we got back on the bikes and headed up to Mammoth.
We stopped a couple of times at overlooks for scenic shots, but pulled off into the Mammoth spring area to drive a loop around the springs.
This was pretty cool, with lots of activity and some pretty strange deposits and formations. We probably spent an hour or more taking pictures and just checking stuff out before we took off to Mammoth for gas and fewd.
Getting gas was a bit interesting. They have the old gas pumps with the handle and spinning dials in Mammoth. Unfortunately, they were old enough that they couldn't handle prices as high as $4 per gallon. So, they had set the pumps for "half-price". It was smthng like $2.18 per gallon. It was kind of cool to fill my tank for $9.50 for a change. Of course, when I went in to pay, they doubled it to get back to "normal" prices. There were signs everywhere explaining this, but it was kind of funny and quaint. It was just neat to see how they'd adapted the old technological dinosaurs to deal with current prices.
Anyway, we stopped and grabbed lunch, which wasn't very good, quick or cheap. There were a LOT of bikes out. I'm guessing a lot of people go to Yellowstone on their way out to Sturgis.
We then decided we'd seen just about all of Yellowstone we needed to see and proceeded to head out towards the Northeast entrance. It was quite a haul, so we still had plenty of time in the park. I don't remember stopping anywhere in particular, but we did see quite a bit on the way out... bison herds, a bear with two cubs (too far away to get pictures), and some more elk.
I'm about to go on a rant here... There wasn't much traffic, but there was enough that there was always some other vehicle in front or behind us within about a minute or so. Most were polite and either pulled over for us or at least altered speed slightly until there were clear passing areas. However, there were exceptions. One in particular really torques my shaft drive! We managed to get behind a pair of Hardley baggers (Harley Davidson touring bikes with full luggage) who were doing the speed limit... Until there was a corner. These two morons would be doing the speed limit and then would drop down to about 20 miles an hour as soon as there was any type of curve. They'd creep through the curve, then whack the throttle wide open to get back up to speed whenever they got out of the curves. Rinse, repeat... repeat... repeat...
Don't get me wrong here, I wasn't looking to do 80 mph or anything around the park, but I was planning on maintaining the speed limit (which I think was 45 mph). A slight curve isn't going to change that. If it's a curve I can safely manage at 70 mph, I'm not going to be happy doing it at 20. I was fine doing the whole thing at 45. I would have been even happier if the morons on the baggers have either made room for us to pass or just not whacked the throttle every time we could have passed. All three of us would have been around them in less than a minute and we all could have enjoyed the remainder of our riding.
Baggers take note... You absolutely cannot outrun or even keep up with a decent rider on a four cylinder sport tourer. It's not possible. Unless your last name is Hayden and you are just playing a really cruel practical joke, it's not going to happen. End of story!
What happens when you try this is that we get closer and closer every time you block us. Then instead of doing a nice pleasant pass, we do smthng obnoxious like drop the bike into first gear, wheelie past you and cut you off HARD when we complete the pass. This makes us happy and we leave five or six miles of pent up frustration behind us (preferably in your air intake). We then either do the same maneuver to you or make it even more obnoxious (my personal preference would be eating a pop tart in front of you while going barely fast enough to keep the bike from falling over, but that's a different story). Once we think you are frustrated enough to try to pass us, we then start the engine again and make sure that you are only going to see our tail lights fading into the sunset. You might also hear us giggling over the horrible noise of your loud exhaust pipes.
It should be noted, that I would never do this. I've just heard that this happens. Occasionally. ;)
Anyway, with the baggers dispatched, we continue on US 212 towards the park exit. This is a really nice part of the park and I think a lot of people miss it. It's basically a huge valley with a river and some grass plains. Absolutely gorgeous country! A few people obviously know about it, because we saw quite a few fly fishermen on Soda Butte Creek.
A final surprise on our way out of the park was trotting towards me down the road. I stopped (in the road) and waited patiently while a mangy looking coyote trotted past me in the other lane. He didn't care at all about me, my lights, the horn, the other two bikes, the three cars behind them, or the SUV that was following him. He was just out for a stroll on the road. I did notice that he had a dark green park radio collar on him, but he really didn't seem to care about that either. It was kind of cool to get that close to one, but they are nasty looking little critters.
After leaving the coyote to his walk, we got out of the park and stopped at the Yellowstone sign to take the required "I was here" pictures. We then continued up Beartooth Pass through Silver Gate and Cooke City (hello Montana). This was pretty much a miserable let down. There was massive construction going on and we ended up in a "convoy" of about 30 vehicles, being led by a construction truck. The road was dirt and rock... which meant huge dust clouds being thrown all over us. To make it more interesting, the construction guys apparently decided to water parts of the road so it wouldn't be so dusty. Dirt plus water equals mud. Not real fun for a 600 pound motorcycle with about 100 pounds of gear on it. Still, no mishaps occurred and we cleared the construction in a few miles. I then promptly got "bad" and passed all the traffic that was previously in front of us. Sorry, I was "done". I stopped and waited for Jim and Richard later. ;)
Beartooth Pass was a nice ride with good scenery, but it wasn't the motorcycle Mecca we had been led to think it was. Maybe we just did one piece of it or smthng and missed the good bits, but I wouldn't go back for it.
Anyway... we stopped for more pics and then turned off highway 296 to Hunter Peak Ranch.
That'll be it for now, but I'll post up separately about the ranch in the next post. It was a cool place and I'll probably find an excuse to go back some day. :)